RV Life

Exploring the South Rim: History, Hiking, and Hidden Gems of the Grand Canyon

As our time on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon comes to an end, it’s hard not to feel a profound respect for such a beautiful and powerful place. I don’t know that anything other than my children has ever brought tears to my eyes just by looking at it. But when you get your first glimpse of the canyon, it’s hard not to tear up. It looks just as it does in the pictures. It is so vast and massive that it is impossible not to feel small.

There aren’t many places on this earth that can put into perspective just how tiny humans truly are. But the canyon does that—and so much more. You don’t think something so remote could hold as much life as it does, but there is life all around in many different shapes and forms: from the many plant species to herds of elk, to the tiniest lizards and chipmunks, to the absolutely massive wingspan of the California Condor. The canyon holds so much beauty.


Indigenous Tribes

The Grand Canyon has long been home to 11 different tribes of indigenous peoples, each with deep and enduring ties to the land. These tribes include the Havasupai, Hopi, Hualapai, Kaibab Band of Paiute, Navajo, Paiute, San Juan Southern Paiute, Yavapai-Apache, Yavapai-Prescott, Zuni, and Walapai. Each has contributed to the cultural and historical tapestry of the canyon, from ancient cliff dwellings to art, stories, and traditions passed down through generations. The Grand Canyon is not just a natural wonder—it’s a living cultural landscape.


The Grand Canyon has long been home to 11 indigenous tribes, each with deep connections to this land.

Living in the Canyon

Did you know the Grand Canyon is the only national park in the U.S. with a K–12 school? Families live and work inside the park, and a community thrives here in ways most visitors never see.

We were fortunate to spend the summer working with the Grand Canyon Conservancy (GCC), the nonprofit partner of the park. The Conservancy funds everything from trail maintenance and search-and-rescue teams to night sky programs, wildlife research, and restoration of historic buildings. They’re also responsible for unique educational opportunities—like the artist and astronomer-in-residence programs—that help visitors gain a deeper connection to the canyon.

During our stay, we worked in four amazing locations:

  1. Verkamps Visitor Center & Family Store – A historic hub of canyon life. The Verkamp family ran this store for nearly a century, supporting early visitors and shaping the community. Working here gave us a hands-on connection to the park’s history.
  2. Kolb Studio – This historic home and photography studio perched on the rim was owned by the adventurous Kolb brothers. They photographed mule riders, raced to the bottom to develop the photos, and even filmed a river trip that brought worldwide attention to the canyon. Walking into the Kolb residence, you enter a room where presidents and congress members—including Theodore Roosevelt—have sat. Downstairs, the living area features a porch overlooking the canyon, where lightning strikes illuminate the red clay in breathtaking ways. My favorite room is Emery’s photography studio and darkroom, filled with old cameras and film cartridges—the camera he used to photograph mule riders still sits in the window. The spirit of Emery Kolb seems to linger here, a reminder of his lifelong dedication to sharing the canyon with the world.
  3. Yavapai Geology Museum – This museum offers the best view of the canyon’s layered history. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the rock layers while exhibits explain how the landscape formed over nearly two billion years. It’s also the starting point of the Trail of Time, a walking timeline of Earth’s history. Sharing this science daily helped us see the land in a completely new light.
  4. Main Visitor Park Store – While not historic like the other locations, this store is the heartbeat of daily canyon life for visitors and staff alike. From helping travelers get what they need to offering advice on trails and programs, it connected us with the thousands of people who come to witness this incredible place each year.

Working in these locations wasn’t just a job—it was a privilege. Verkamps showed the human history of families in the canyon, Kolb Studio captured the spirit of adventure, Yavapai Geology Museum shared the story of the land itself, and the main visitor store connected us to the people who come to experience it. Living and working here deepened our respect for all who have called this place home.


Living and working in the Grand Canyon gave us a unique window into its history, culture, and daily life.

Hermits Rest

Hermits Rest is a 7-mile stretch of the park accessible only by shuttle in spring and summer, but it’s worth the trip anytime. It ends at Hermit’s Trailhead, a less-traveled trail recommended only for experienced hikers. The trail is not monitored by search and rescue, so hikers must be self-reliant. We didn’t venture far, but just enough to see fossils embedded in the rocks—a prominent spot for fossil hunting.

Hermits Rest offers less-traveled trails and a glimpse into the canyon’s ancient past.

Desert View Watchtower

Built by architect Mary Colter, the Desert View Watchtower is one of the best places on the South Rim to see the Colorado River. About a 30-minute drive from the main visitor center, it cannot be reached by shuttle. Along the way, there are multiple viewpoints where you can park and take in the canyon. Colter’s designs were deeply influenced by indigenous culture, and the watchtower itself evokes the spirit of ancient pueblo architecture.


Mary Colter’s Desert View Watchtower: a viewpoint and tribute to indigenous architecture.

The Grand Canyon Railway

Many visitors ask how to take the train from inside the park—don’t make that mistake. The Grand Canyon Railway begins in Williams, Arizona, about an hour outside the park. The train ride into the canyon is beautiful, but a same-day trip gives you only about four hours to explore, which can feel rushed. For families, adding meals or the Jr. Ranger program cuts into that time. Sunrise and sunset are the best times to experience the canyon’s vibrant colors, so consider staying overnight in the park and taking the train back to Williams instead.

Get your tickets for the Railway ahead of time here https://www.viator.com/tours/Flagstaff/Grand-Canyon-Railway-Train-Tickets/d21450-2505GCRTRAIN?pid=P00267281&mcid=42383&medium=link&campaign=GrandCanyon


Traveling by train from Williams offers a scenic approach to the South Rim—but don’t rush your visit!

The Dragon Bravo Fire

About two months into our stay, on July 4, 2025, a lightning strike started the Dragon Bravo Fire on the North Rim. Originally intended as a controlled burn, the fire quickly escalated, prompting evacuations and destroying structures including the North Rim Lodge, a gas station, and staff housing. Trails were closed throughout the canyon, leaving only Bright Angel Trail to Havasupai Gardens open. Visitor numbers plummeted, and the small town economy of Tusayan struggled.

The fire was devastating, but it also created moments of surreal beauty. From the South Rim at night, the glowing orange reflection of the fire in the distance was breathtaking. Wildlife that normally remains hidden became more visible on the South Rim: bobcats, black bears, and herds of 150–200 elk roamed freely. While we couldn’t complete the Rim-to-Rim hike that season, it was a reminder of the canyon’s raw power and resilience.


Hiking in the Canyon

Hiking here is a whole different experience. Most mountains allow you to hike down when tired—but in the canyon, down is optional, up is mandatory. Elevation changes can be extreme, up to 600 feet in just half a mile, and temperatures at the bottom can be 20 degrees hotter than at the rim. Water stations are limited, shade is scarce, and overnight permits are required for campgrounds. The best hiking times are April–May and September–October, when temperatures are more moderate.

Hiking in the Grand Canyon doesn’t always have to be hiking INTO the canyon. There are many trails up on rim with some incredible sight seeing.

Saving Money & Dispersed Camping

Groceries inside the park are limited and expensive. Flagstaff, about an hour and a half away, offers better quality and prices. If you’re staying for a few days, check out my 4-night camping meal plan and grocery list [link].

Dispersed camping is allowed outside the park, including:

  • A road off to the left before the South Rim entrance—set up at least ¼ mile from the road.
  • Select dispersed sites near Desert View Watchtower.

Shuttles are free throughout the park (except to Desert View), which helps save on gas.


Suggested 4 Day South Rim Itinerary

  • 4-Day Budget-Friendly Itinerary for the Grand Canyon (South Rim)
    Day 1 – Arrival & First Glimpse
    Morning/Afternoon: Arrive at the South Rim. If you’re dispersed camping, set up your site off the road before the South Entrance or near Desert View Watchtower.
    Afternoon: Head into the park and stop at Verkamps Visitor Center to learn about the canyon’s human history and grab a Junior Ranger booklet if you have kids.
    Evening: Walk the Trail of Time from Verkamps to Yavapai Geology Museum. Enjoy your first sunset at Yavapai Point — one of the best budget-friendly spots in the park.
    Dinner: Cook your own meal at camp (saves big vs. eating out).

    Day 2 – History & Hidden Stories
    Morning: Tour Kolb Studio (budget tip: you can walk through the free gallery portion if you don’t want to pay for the full $30 guided tour).
    Late Morning: Visit the Yavapai Geology Museum for an incredible (and free) overview of the canyon’s rock layers and formation.
    Afternoon: Hop on the free shuttle and explore the viewpoints along Hermit Road all the way to Hermits Rest. Pack a picnic lunch to enjoy at one of the overlooks.
    Evening: Attend a free ranger program or Night Sky program if offered. Stargazing here is unforgettable and costs nothing.

    Day 3 – Sunrise & Cultural Sites
    Early Morning: Drive out to Desert View Watchtower to catch the sunrise. The drive takes about 30 minutes, but it’s worth every second. On the way back, stop at the scenic overlooks along Desert View Drive.
    Late Morning: Visit the Tusayan Ruins & Museum (free with park entry) to learn about the ancient Puebloan people who once called this area home.
    Afternoon: Hike a short section of Bright Angel Trail down to the 1.5-mile resthouse (budget-friendly and no permit needed for day hikes). Bring plenty of water and snacks.
    Evening: Return to camp, cook dinner, and relax. If you have the energy, take in another sunset at Hopi or Mather Point.

    Day 4 – Wildlife & Farewell
    Morning: Stroll along the Rim Trail near Mather Point and keep your eyes open for elk, mule deer, and California Condors.
    Late Morning: If you missed it earlier, stop into Verkamps again to finish any exhibits or browse the bookstore.
    Afternoon: Pack up camp, grab groceries in Flagstaff or Williams on your way out, and say farewell to the South Rim.
    Optional Detour: Stop in Williams, AZ to explore Route 66, or visit Bearizona if you’re up for one last wildlife adventure.

    Budget Tips Recap
    Use dispersed camping outside the South Entrance or near Desert View Watchtower.
    Cook your meals instead of dining out.
    Use the free park shuttles to save gas.
    Take advantage of free museums and ranger programs.
    Bring groceries from Flagstaff or Williams (avoid buying in the park).
    If you visit more than one National Park this year, grab an America the Beautiful Pass ($80/year, free for 4th graders and military families).

  • 4-Day Splurge-Itinerary: South Rim with Helicopter Flyover
    Day 1 – A Scenic Welcome to the Canyon
    Morning: Arrive at the South Rim and check into your lodging—consider staying at one of the rim-side historic lodges to soak in the view right outside your door.
    Afternoon: Take in the canyon’s depth and silence with a stroll along the Trail of Time, starting at the Yavapai Geology Museum.
    Evening: Enjoy dinner with canyon views—perhaps at a lodge restaurant overlooking the rim—followed by a Night Sky program or ranger talk.

    Day 2 – History and Aerial Splendor
    Morning: Visit Verkamps Visitor Center and Kolb Studio to immerse yourself in canyon history and art.
    Early Afternoon: Experience a breathtaking helicopter tour over the South Rim. Several operators offer 25–45 minute flights showcasing Kaibab Forest, Desert View Watchtower, Painted Desert, and the Dragon Corridor. Check my favorites out here. https://www.viator.com/tours/Grand-Canyon-National-Park/Grand-Canyon-Helicopter-45-Minute-Flights-with-Optional-Hummer-Tour/d815-6613P24?pid=P00267281&mcid=42383&medium=link&campaign=GrandCanyon
    Evening: Return to the rim for sunset views at Yavapai Point or Hopi Point, when the canyon glows in golden light.

    Day 3 – Sunrise, Cultural Ruins & Trails
    Pre-dawn: Drive out to Desert View Watchtower for sunrise.
    Late Morning: Explore the Tusayan Ruins & Museum to connect with ancient Puebloan culture.
    Afternoon: Refresh with an easy trail walk along the Rim Trail or try a short stretch of Bright Angel Trail (no permit required for day hikes).
    Evening: Unwind with another incredible canyon sunset before enjoying a hearty dinner at your lodge or a nearby restaurant.

    Day 4 – Farewell Views and Williams Detour
    Early Morning: Enjoy a final sunrise at a favorite viewpoint.
    Midday: Head out of the park and stop in Williams, AZ—grab lunch, explore Route 66 charm, or visit attractions like Bearizona or the Grand Canyon Railway Depot. https://www.viator.com/tours/Flagstaff/Grand-Canyon-Railway-Train-Tickets/d21450-2505GCRTRAIN?pid=P00267281&mcid=42383&medium=link&campaign=GrandCanyon
    Afternoon: Depart with memories made and perspectives changed.

If you’re visiting Williams, stay tuned for my article What to Do in Williams, Arizona Guide coming out next week!

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Hi, I’m Kaycee! Born and raised in Southern California, I eventually made my way to the coast of North Carolina. For years, I worked in the healthcare field, but my true passion has always been travel — discovering new places, meeting new people, and experiencing the beauty of the world around us. So when the opportunity came to turn that passion into a full-time adventure, we packed up, hit the road, and never looked back. When I’m not exploring new destinations, you can usually find me with a good book in hand, cooking up something delicious from scratch, or finding some new adventure to do with my kids. I’m also a huge animal lover, always on the lookout for wildlife, and passionate about conservation and living in a way that helps preserve the earth for future generations. Travel, to me, is about more than just checking destinations off a list — it’s about creating memories, living simply, and finding adventure in both the big and small moments. Through this space, I hope to inspire others to embrace their own adventures, live intentionally, and connect with the world in meaningful ways.

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